Getting a flat tire always seems to happen at the worst possible moment — merging onto the highway, pulling out of a parking lot, or halfway through a road trip. That first thud or pull in the steering wheel can rattle even experienced drivers.
So, when you change a tire, which action should you take first? Before you touch the jack or the lug wrench, move to a safe location and secure your vehicle. Turn on your hazard lights, engage the parking brake, and make sure you’re on stable, level ground.
From there, the rest of the process is fairly straightforward. Here’s the safest order of steps, plus the mistakes that trip up most DIY tire changes.
1. Move Your Vehicle to a Safe Location
Move to a wide, stable shoulder and turn on your hazards before doing anything else.Before reaching for any tools, get yourself and your car out of harm’s way.
If the flat happens while you’re driving, don’t slam on the brakes or swerve. Ease off the gas and steer gradually toward a safer spot, such as:
- A wide shoulder
- A parking lot
- A rest area
- A driveway, with permission
- Any flat, stable area away from traffic
Skip a narrow shoulder if a better spot is within reach, and check your mirrors before drifting over so you don’t cut off someone in the next lane. If you’re on a busy highway with no safe way to pull over, it’s smarter to call roadside assistance than to attempt the change yourself.
Turn on Your Hazard Lights
Flip on your hazards as soon as you notice a tire problem. They warn other drivers that your car is stopped or moving unusually slowly — something that matters even more at night or in poor weather.
2. Secure the Vehicle Before Jacking It Up
Once you’ve stopped somewhere safe, make sure the car can’t roll while you’re working on it.
Shift an automatic transmission into Park, or leave a manual in gear as your owner’s manual recommends. Engage the parking brake, then turn off the engine.
If you’re carrying wheel chocks, wedge them against the tires that will stay on the ground. Changing a front tire? Chock a rear wheel, and vice versa. Driving an EV or hybrid? Put it in Park just like you would a standard automatic, since these vehicles typically use the same gear logic even without a traditional transmission.
Check the Ground
Your vehicle needs firm, level footing before you jack it up. Avoid lifting a car on mud, loose gravel, sand, a steep slope, or a crumbling shoulder. Soft or uneven ground can cause the jack to shift or sink — one of the more dangerous mistakes you can make during a tire change.
3. Gather the Right Equipment
Before lifting the car, round up everything you’ll need. Most vehicles with a traditional spare carry a basic tire-changing kit, though contents vary by make and model.
| Tool | Purpose |
| Spare tire | Temporary or full-size replacement |
| Vehicle jack | Lifts the car off the ground |
| Lug wrench | Loosens and tightens lug nuts |
| Wheel chocks | Keeps the vehicle from rolling |
| Gloves | Protects your hands |
| Flashlight | Helps in low light |
| Reflective triangles or flares | Improves visibility to traffic |
Some newer vehicles skip the spare entirely and include a tire repair kit or inflator instead. Check your owner’s manual ahead of time — it’ll list the exact jacking points and any restrictions specific to your car.
It’s worth doing a quick trunk check before you actually need any of this. A missing jack handle or a spare with no air is far easier to fix in your driveway than on the shoulder of a highway.
4. Loosen the Lug Nuts Before Raising the Vehicle
This is where a lot of first-timers get the order wrong: loosen the lug nuts while the tire is still on the ground, not after the car is jacked up.
Pop off the wheel cover if there is one, then fit the lug wrench snugly onto the first lug nut and turn it counterclockwise. Expect some resistance — these nuts are torqued tight. If a nut won’t budge, try standing on the wrench for extra leverage rather than yanking hard and risking your balance. You’re only breaking them loose here, not removing them yet.
Why Do This Before Jacking?
With the tire still touching the pavement, there’s enough resistance to keep the wheel from spinning as you apply force. Try this after lifting the car, and the wheel just rotates uselessly, making the job much harder.
5. Position the Jack at the Correct Jacking Point
With the lug nuts loosened, place the jack. Your owner’s manual will point you to the vehicle’s designated jacking points — reinforced spots built to support the car’s weight.
Never set the jack under body panels, suspension parts, or the exhaust system. These aren’t built to bear that kind of load. Trucks and SUVs often have different jacking points than sedans, so don’t assume the setup is the same just because two vehicles look similar.
Once positioned correctly, raise the vehicle slowly until the flat tire clears the ground by a few inches — just enough to swap it out.
Never Put Your Body Under a Vehicle Supported Only by a Jack
A jack is built for lifting, not for holding a car steady while someone works underneath. Never crawl beneath a vehicle resting only on its emergency jack. If you need to get under the car, that calls for proper jack stands.
6. Remove the Flat Tire and Install the Spare
With the flat off the ground, finish removing the lug nuts and set them somewhere they won’t roll away or pick up dirt.
Pull the wheel straight toward you. If it doesn’t budge right away, don’t force it — corrosion can cause a wheel to stick to the hub, and some wiggling usually frees it.
Line up the spare’s holes with the wheel studs, then push it onto the hub until it sits flush. Thread the lug nuts back on by hand.
Tighten the Lug Nuts in the Correct Pattern
Don’t crank one lug nut down fully before touching the others. Tighten them gradually in a crisscross or star pattern — on a five-lug wheel, that means moving to the nut across from the one you just tightened, not around the circle. Get them snug enough to hold the wheel, but save full torque for after the car is back on the ground.
7. Lower the Vehicle and Fully Tighten the Lug Nuts
Once the spare is on and the lug nuts are snug, lower the vehicle slowly and pull the jack out only after the tire is firmly on the pavement.
Now bring the lug nuts to full torque, ideally with a torque wrench set to the spec in your owner’s manual. Don’t rely on body weight or jump on the wrench — overtightening can damage the wheel studs or make the nuts nearly impossible to remove later. Work across the wheel in the same crisscross pattern.
8. Check the Spare Tire Before Driving
Resist the urge to drive off right away. Take a minute to double-check your work:
- All lug nuts are installed and tightened
- The spare is seated correctly
- The jack and tools are out from under and around the car
- The flat tire and equipment are stowed securely
- The spare has adequate air pressure
That last point matters more than people expect. A spare can sit untouched for years, so don’t assume it’s inflated just because it looks fine.
Check the Spare Tire’s Speed Limit
Many cars carry a compact “donut” spare rather than a full-size one, and these aren’t meant to perform like a regular tire. They often come with speed and distance limits — commonly around 50 mph and 50 to 70 miles — but always follow the number printed on the tire itself and in your owner’s manual. Riding on a donut spare longer than recommended puts extra strain on the transmission in some all-wheel-drive vehicles, so it pays to double-check that detail too.
9. Drive Carefully to a Tire Shop or Safe Location
A spare tire is meant to get you to a shop, not to replace your tire long-term.A spare, especially a compact one, is meant to get you somewhere — not to become your new tire. Drive cautiously, skip unnecessary trips, and head toward a tire shop or repair facility where the damaged tire can be inspected.
A full-size spare allows more normal driving, but it’s still worth following your manufacturer’s guidance.
Don’t Ignore the Original Tire
A simple puncture in the tread area can often be repaired by a professional. But sidewall damage, certain shoulder damage, or signs the tire was driven while severely underinflated usually mean it needs replacing instead. A shop can make that call after inspecting it.
10. Common Mistakes to Avoid When Changing a Tire
Knowing what not to do is just as useful as knowing the right steps.
Changing the Tire Too Close to Traffic
If cars are passing close to your vehicle, call roadside assistance instead of risking it. No spare is worth stepping into an active lane for.
Using the Jack on Unstable Ground
Soft or uneven surfaces let the jack shift mid-lift. Move to firmer ground if you safely can, or slide a flat board under the jack’s base for more stability.
Skipping the Parking Brake
Always secure the vehicle before you start jacking it up. It only takes a second, and it’s one less thing that can go wrong.
Removing Lug Nuts Before the Wheel Is Supported
Loosen them while the tire is still on the ground — it’s far easier and safer than fighting a spinning wheel later.
Guessing at the Jacking Point
Check your owner’s manual instead of picking a random spot under the car. A wrong guess can dent the frame or leave the vehicle unstable.
Forgetting to Check the Spare’s Pressure
A spare that’s been sitting for years may be seriously underinflated. A cheap pressure gauge in your glovebox solves this in seconds.
Driving Too Fast on a Compact Spare
Stick to the speed and distance limits printed on the tire. Pushing past them can wear out the spare quickly or affect handling.
11. What Should You Do If Changing the Tire Isn’t Safe?
Sometimes the safest answer to “when you change a tire, which action should you take” is to not attempt it yourself.
If you’re stuck on a dangerous highway shoulder, traffic is passing too close, the weather has turned severe, or you don’t have the right equipment, it’s worth calling for professional roadside help instead. Many auto insurance policies and credit cards already include roadside assistance, so it’s worth checking what’s available to you before you ever need it.
If you’re stranded somewhere risky, stay in a safe position and contact emergency or roadside services. The tire can always be replaced later — your safety can’t be undone.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should you loosen lug nuts before jacking up the car?
Yes. Loosen them while the tire is still touching the ground — the resistance keeps the wheel from spinning as you apply force.
What should you do first when you get a flat tire?
Slow down gradually, pull into the safest available spot, turn on your hazards, and secure the vehicle before starting the tire change.
Should the parking brake be on when changing a tire?
Yes, always. Engage it before raising the car, and use wheel chocks if you have them for extra security.
Can you change a tire on the side of a highway?
Only if you can do it safely. If the shoulder is narrow or traffic is close, call roadside assistance instead.
How tight should lug nuts be?
Tighten them to your vehicle manufacturer’s torque specification, ideally using a torque wrench for accuracy.
How fast can you drive on a spare tire?
It depends on the spare. Compact donut spares often cap out around 50 mph, but always check the tire and your owner’s manual.
How long can you drive on a temporary spare?
Just long enough to reach a tire shop or safe location — it isn’t meant to replace a full tire long-term.
Conclusion
When you change a tire, safety comes before speed: find a safe spot, secure the car, loosen the lug nuts before jacking, use the correct jacking point, and tighten everything to spec once the spare is on the ground.
And if the situation doesn’t feel safe — heavy traffic, bad weather, no proper equipment — it’s always smarter to call for help than to push through it alone.
